I was outside one day and noticed stick tight fleas on my chickens. Growing up with cats and dogs a flea, in general, was nothing new. These were different though. They were burrowed underneath the chickens’ skin, and not easily removable. But I’m going to tell you exactly what I did, step by step, how to get rid of sticktight fleas on chickens.
What are stick tight fleas and how do you get rid of them?
After an extensive amount of research, I learned that hell on Earth can come in the form of stick tight fleas.
Although Frontline does kill stick tight fleas on cats and dogs (always contact a veterinarian, though), you can’t take that approach with your chickens.
In this guide:
- What is a stick-tight flea?
- Are stick-tight fleas dangerous?
- How do you get stick-tight fleas?
- How do you get rid of them?
- Different methods I read about that might work for you
- The method I used successfully
What is a stick-tight flea?
In short, a stick-tight flea also referred to as a poultry flea, is a flea that burrows like a tick would. Gross, right? Since they’re a bit smaller than your average flea, they are a pain to remove, and, as your stereotypical flea does, they multiply.
Additionally, stick tight fleas are usually found attached in clusters. Although they’re alter-name is the poultry flea, they will attach to any host they can find.
That means that stick tight fleas on humans is possible! You, me, the cat – it doesn’t matter. As long as you have blood to suck, a stick tight flea has a place to be. Double gross.
Are stick-tight fleas dangerous?
The short answer is yes, they can be detrimental to your flock. Before I knew what they were, I had a rabbit die from being infested by stick-tight fleas. The fleas suck blood as a tick does and will wear an animal down, preventing it from hunting or moving.
If stick tight fleas go unnoticed, or worse, untreated you could very quickly have an uncontrollable problem and be forced to cull your whole flock.
Another thing to note is when an animal is the main host for hundreds of stick tight fleas, the animal becomes susceptible to other diseases from loss of blood and a crippled immune system.
How do you get stick-tight fleas?
They’re carried by a host as any flea is. This host can be a squirrel or even the neighbor’s dog if he/she isn’t treated for fleas. When we moved onto our homestead, we inherited some hens from the previous owner.
Soon I realized we also inherited a rodent problem, which presented its own obstacles. Since the rodents eventually moved in with abundance, the fleas did too.
In my particular case, I had to not only get my stick tight flea infestation under control but also a rodent problem at the same time, which I did successfully do.
How do you get rid of stick-tight fleas?
Stick tight fleas were the most aggravating thing to research when trying to figure out how to get rid of them! I never found a way to battle them 100% organically, which made this all a very hard thing to deal with.
We try not to use pesticides or chemicals on our land, and this was the first time I had to look into what would be appropriate and safe enough to use within the living quarters.
I’m here to tell you what I found through my research and, even better, how I’ve defeated the stick-tight fleas with this chicken treatment. I use this method year after year without fail.
Some years are more intense than others, so plan accordingly. I make it a point to have the products mentioned in this article on hand at all times.
To begin, you need to determine if you have an infestation or not.
- Note that if you’re sure you have an infestation, my method might not be enough for your situation.
- If you see fleas on your birds, usually on the head, comb, and under the eyes, you need to take action as soon as possible.
- Look at your birds. Are more than two or three chickens completely covered in the little bug(gers)? Yes? You might have an infestation.
Stick tight fleas removal methods I read about
The majority of the methods I found were coming from individuals who didn’t have many birds, maybe 5-10, and they were extremely hands-on. I recommend you to use these methods if you believe you have an infestation that can not be handled with my method.
TREATING THE BIRD:
- Catch your bird. Easiest done in the evenings while they’re roosting.
- Smear vaseline over the areas infested with stick tight fleas, being very careful not to get the vaseline in their eyes. This will smother and kill the fleas.
- Dust your bird very carefully with food-grade diatomaceous earth, making sure you aren’t creating a large dust storm as it can harm a chickens lungs. Folks have asked me if diatomaceous earth will kill stick tight fleas and my answer is no. I use DE to help the chickens dust bathe the dead fleas off, not to kill the actual fleas. Once they’ve burrowed into the skin, DE isn’t going to help very much.
- After you’ve left the chickens for the night, come back and wipe off the vaseline and pull the stick fleas off. REPEAT until your chickens are clear.
TREATING THE LIVING QUARTERS:
Disclaimer, this is required in all methods. It was not enjoyable in any way.
- Shovel out any and all bedding, nesting materials, etc. If you have a dirt floor, like me, this is going to be a big job. You need to shovel out the whole top layer of your floor. If you have a solid floor (wood, concrete, etc.) I envy you. Just shovel out whatever is atop that floor material and spray the floor down well.
- BURN THIS BEDDING! Or haul it far away and put it in a HOT compost pile. The heat from the hot compost pile can kill the stick tight fleas. That’s what I did and I’ve had no problem.
- Add all new bedding and nesting material along with a healthy layer of DE.
- Choose a flea spray of your choice and treat the coop, while the chickens are away. Do this as often as needed until your flea problem is gone. I absolutely love Vet’s Best spray because it’s essential oil-based and safer than others I’ve found. I use this spray in my home, around my rabbit hutches, and on my dogs’ beds! If you’re wondering how to remove stick tight fleas from your dog, this spray is a good first step outside of flea medication! Read my honest review of Vet’s Best Spray and why I love it!
Other methods I read about
Most of the methods I read about involved applying actual flea and tick medication to the neck of your birds, as you would do with a cat or dog. This option is one I deemed a last resort.
If you have an infestation, you may have to do this. I read about some folks having to cull their whole flock because the stick-tight fleas were so bad.
If you do choose to go the route of applying medication, be sure to do your research on doses and brands. You’ll likely need to discard of your eggs for 2-4 weeks or longer. Applying chemical directly to your bird means it’s soaking into their system; that chemical can also make it to those beautiful fresh eggs, unfortunately.
There are also methods where people bathe their chickens in a type of chemical dip. This, too, was not something I was willing to do unless an infestation occurred. My chickens would also hate me forever…it would’ve been a sight to see though, me trying to bathe my chickens!
I suggest you go to backyardchickens.com and search their site. I found the most personal experience stories there!
My method of stick tight fleas treatment (that worked)
- First, I followed the steps above to thoroughly clean out my coop and dispose properly of the bedding so the little devils didn’t come hopping back.
You HAVE to do this. Yes, it’s no fun and the fleas are hopping all over you just mad that you’re disturbing them. Put your work pants on, slide on your rain boots, spray yourself with diluted tea tree oil (or even Vet’s Best like I do!) and get to it! No excuses, Y’all.
- Next, I bought Sevin Yard Spray and Vet’s Best Flea and Tick Yard and Kennel Spray. I want to acknowledge that ‘Sevin’ products were recently said to not be safe for chickens.
After doing research, I felt this was the safest option in comparison to other options I found. I would’ve liked to battle these fleas naturally, but it just wasn’t an option.
The chickens were never in direct contact with the spray and it’s diluted as you hook it directly to a hose to apply.
- While your chickens are out of the coop, spray the new bedding/flooring with Sevin Yard Spray. Do this every day for two weeks, changing their nesting bedding often.
You can just scrape it to the floor and treat it. DO NOT SPRAY YOUR BOXES WITH SEVIN SPRAY. I feel I would’ve been a bad chicken mama had I sprayed their boxes. Please don’t make your ladies sit in Sevin Spray.
- Every evening as I picked up eggs and the chickens were roosting I sprinkled DE on the floor of the coop. I also lightly, and carefully, sprinkled the hens and roos if they’d let me. I’d also sprinkle the nesting boxes while they weren’t being used.
- On your second week of spraying the Sevin Spray on the floor, add the Vet’s Best Flea and Tick Yard and Kennel Spray into your routine. The Vet’s Best Flea and Tick Spray is one of the best products
I’ve found and a total blessing to my everyday life. It’s essential oil-based (chicken-safe), fights against fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes, and it’s even safe to spray in your home! (You’ll want to get the home spray, though).
I apply Vet’s Best to my dogs’ beds, my carpet, and my couch! BONUS: It smells wonderful in the house AND coop!
- After following the bedding and spraying steps, and sprinkling DE like it’s your job, you should notice a drastic decline or a total cease in stick-tight flea activity.
If your flea activity has decreased, repeat these steps. If you repeat these steps and the activity is still high you might have an infestation and will need to take further measures.
No more stick-tight fleas!
95% of my chickens are stick tight flea free! The ones that do still have fleas on them are the broody hens that haven’t dust bathed the dead fleas off. Everything you’ll read will say that you absolutely have to pluck each flea off of the hen.
In my experience, this isn’t completely accurate. My flock has access to a large grazing area and Florida has some really gritty sand. I never picked a single flea of my ladies, although I would if I had to.
I still apply the Vet’s Best spray once a week as a preventative because it’s safe and smells wonderful. I also treat my cat and dogs for flea and ticks in order to cut down on the number of host options the fleas have.
Also, if one or two catch a ride on me into the house I know they’ll soon be done for. If you have any questions for me, comment below! And remember, stick tight fleas are not the same as your regular, typical flea.
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- How to raise meat chickens for beginners
- How to raise chicks for beginners
- An honest review of Vet’s Best Flea and Tick Spray
- Brooder heat plates vs heat lamps